The Irresistible Glow of Tunis

Across the rooftops of Tunis, the day’s final call to prayer gave way to the sounds of a D.J. getting started for the evening with a mix of disco and the bagpipe-infused Tunisian music known as mezwed. The contrast perfectly captured the moment in this Mediterranean city at the confluence of Europe, North Africa and the Middle East.

Tunis feels like a city remaking itself in real time. In Sidi Bou Said, a cliff-side suburb overlooking the Gulf of Tunis, cobalt doors open onto concept stores and slow-fashion ateliers. In the city center, artist collectives host film screenings in old apartment blocks. Old men sip espresso and play cards under ceiling fans just a stone’s throw from youth- and queer-friendly spaces.

I first came to Tunis on a whim about a year ago, on a $50 flight from London, expecting a sleepy seaside capital. Instead, I found a city with an addictive creative tempo. It felt raw and un-self-conscious. Everyone I met was creating something: a cafe, a clothing line, a gallery show. Since then, drawn by this spirit, I’ve made many return trips…

By Tyler Donohue - Visuals by Jeremie Souteyrat - March 20, 2026

https://www.nytimes.com/2026/03/20/travel/tunisia-capital-history-fashion-food-art.html